Ultimate Guide to Bearded Dragon Impaction: Signs, Treatments, & More

Much like us, bearded dragons can become backed up, unable to pass a much-needed bowel movement.

However, unlike us… impaction for a bearded dragon is a much more serious issue than simple constipation or bloating that almost always subsides shortly.

Whereas we might pop a Tums or eat a banana, a bearded dragon suffering from impaction doesn’t have such an easy and quick solution to clearing out their blockage.

Seeing as how the solution to clearing up bearded dragon impaction isn’t exactly clear cut, this ultimate guide will serve as a resource to help you both prevent impaction and cure it.

What is Impaction in Bearded Dragons?

Impaction in Bearded Dragons

Impaction is a serious condition in which a bearded dragon’s digestive track is unable to fully pass bowel movements due to a blockage of either a solid or semi-solid mass.

What Causes Impaction in Bearded Dragons?

Unfortunately, there are many things that can cause impaction in a bearded dragon, from using risky substrate, to using hard-to-digest feeders, to inadequate temperatures in the tank, and much more.

Take a look below at how each of these hazards (plus a few more!) can lead to impaction issues…

Using Particle Based (AKA loose) Substrates

Unfortunately, not all substrates are considered equal! Loose particle substrates, such as Calci-Sand, play sand, and pellets have all been associated with impaction.

Over time, your bearded dragon can consume enough of the substrate to cause a blockage.

Your dragon can consume this substrate on accident when hunting their feeders or when even eating their greens if they aren’t kept tidy in a dish.

substrate to avoid in bearded dragon tank

Also, it should be noted that many manufacturers of these hazardous substrates make bold and false claims on their package, stating that their product is “digestible” or “safe”. Don’t believe this malarkey! 

Sadly enough, there is little to no regulation on reptile products, which allows for manufacturers to make irresponsible claims. 

The best substrate options for bearded dragons are going to be ceramic tile, reptile carpet, paper towels, or newspaper.

Learn more about what substrates are safe for your pet HERE.

Improper Habitat Temperatures

If your dragon’s tank doesn’t have the right temperatures, they will likely have a very difficult time digesting their food. As such, it is imperative that you ​keep the temperature under control at all times.

bearded dragon sunning itself

As a general rule of thumb, your adult bearded dragon’s basking spot should be between 95 and 105 degrees.

For babies, keep the basking spot between 105 and 110.

Also, something to be cognizant of is ensuring your bearded dragon has access to their basking spot for at least an hour after they eat.

Because of this, I recommend you don’t feed your dragon at night right before you turn his lights off, but instead, feed him at least one hour (if not several) before bedtime.

Click HERE to read more about proper lighting and basking bulb setup

Difficult to Digest Feeders

There are two reasons a feeder (i.e. live insect) can be difficult to digest and lead to impaction.

The first is size, the second is the type of shell they have.

When it comes to the former, a good rule of thumb is to never give your bearded dragon a feeder that is wider than the space between your dragon’s eyes.

How big of a cricket can you feed a bearded dragon

In regard to troublesome shells, insects such as larger crickets, mealworms, and superworms can pose threats to your dragon’s digestive track if eaten too often.

Baby bearded dragons should never be given any of these types of feeders, whereas adults should only be given them very occasionally as a treat.

Check out the best live food for your bearded dragon HERE.

Signs Your Bearded Dragon May be Impacted

The first and most obvious sign of impaction will be that your bearded dragon stops going to the bathroom.

Most bearded dragons will have a bowel movement every one to two days.

If your dragon hasn’t gone to the bathroom in days and also isn’t acting like their normal self, you definitely have cause for concern.

A more serious sign of impaction issues could also be a loss of mobility in your beardie’s hind legs.

If your pet is dragging his or her back legs as they move about, definitely take action to determine what is causing the issue.

Bearded dragon dragging back legs

A bump along the back of your dragon could also indicate issues with impaction as well.

How to Clear Impaction in Bearded Dragons

In minor and early cases of impaction, you can often times help your beardie have a bowel movement by acting quickly.

If you suspect your bearded dragon is impacted, draw a nice warm bath for them and consider filling it a little more than usual to allow them to swim a bit.

Making sure to keep a close watch on your dragon, be prepared to wait for up to 30 minutes or so for your dragon to do the deed.

It may happen quicker than this, but 30 minutes is a good amount of time to allot.

Also, you can very gently massage your dragon’s stomach and cloaca to encourage a bowel movement.

If despite your best efforts you dragon still isn’t going to the bathroom, then you may need to just take him or her to the vet.

bearded dragon getting a bath

However, if a vet is out of the question for you or you can’t get in right away, check out some other treatment options in the next section below.

Bearded Dragon Impaction Treatment Options

Along with warm baths and massages daily, there are a few other measures you can take to try and attempt to get your dragon to go to the restroom.

See the following home remedy suggestions below…

Olive Oil 

To help move things along, consider putting a couple drops of olive oil on your dragon’s nose for them to lick off. It is very important that you don’t opt for vegetable oil, however, just olive oil.

A New Diet

If your dragon is impacted, avoid feeding them any feeders as this may only add to the impaction. Instead, keep their diet filled with relatively soft foods that can be easily digested. Here are some suggestions…

  1. Warm baby food applesauce
  2. 100% canned pumpkin diluted with water
  3. 100% juice with no added sugar diluted (1:3)

Vet Appointment

If your dragon goes longer than a week without pooping and the above measures don’t result in a bowel movement, I recommend taking them to see a vet.

A vet will be able to take an X-ray and determine the severity of the impaction and develop a treatment plan from there, be it laxatives, an enema, or surgery.

Bearded dragon at the vet

Bearded Dragon Impaction Surgery

If none of your efforts to produce a bowel movement seem to be working, then it is imperative you get your dragon to a herp vet right away.

If the vet can’t seem to clear the blockage via enemas or laxatives OR they simply determine the blockage is significant, then surgery will likely be your only option.

Surgery Cost

As far as the cost of surgery, you can generally expect prices anywhere from $300 to $1200 depending on the area you live in and the vet you go to.

If these prices seem out of your price range, fret not as most vets will offer very reasonable payment plans that make even expensive surgeries affordable.

bearded dragon surgery

In Conclusion

It’s important to realize that impaction doesn’t have to mean the end of the road for your sweet bearded dragon.

And although impaction can lead to death, there are so many treatment options and home remedies worth looking into to get your little guy or girl back on track and feeling great in no time.

Just be patient, exhaust your options, and if all else fails… be open to paying the vet a visit. If you’re willing to do whatever it takes, chances are your pet will be just fine in no time.

Read These Yet?

Top 10 Bearded Dragon Frequently Asked Questions

Best UVB Bulbs for Bearded Dragons That Help Prevent MBD & Other Illnesses

How to Tell If Your Bearded Dragon is Sick: 10 Warning Signs You Must NOT Ignore

19 thoughts on “Ultimate Guide to Bearded Dragon Impaction: Signs, Treatments, & More”

  1. Please can you help me. Our beardie just stopped eating and overheated twice in his normal cage that his been in for years.
    He stays black under his beard and are totally lethargic. He is at the vet at the moment, but only with heat and no lights. I’m not sure that they know beardies very good.
    He was without his UV for a while, we struggled to get but we took him out into the sun everyday. He started getting sick a while after he overheated the first time.
    In the meanwhile we got his uv, but he still refuses to eat.
    The vet gave us high protein food to mix with water, but we had to force feed him which upsets him so much.
    The vet is force feeding him and he did poop. He says that he did eat a little, but our main concern is no lights at all, just heat. I feel like fetching him later when they open and bring him home under his lights. Please what will be the best to do and feed him.
    He is totally pale and becomes black instantly under his beard.

    Reply
      • Hi we rescue & rehome and see this all the time. A Beardie needs UVB & Heat w/calcium powder 4times a week. NO colored or coiled bulbs. Brittle bones, not able to eat, no energy, shaking, seizures sometimes, etc is what happens to them without UVb. Order on amazon the Best & Only recommended UVB: The Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70prcnt of the tank and place alongside the back beginning at the hot side so if he wants away from the uVb the cold side is without or he can goninder his hide. Also, for heat the ZooMed basking clear bulb only. Never ever colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. They also need calcium once per day dusted on their Dubia roaches or crickets. Or sprinkled on their veggies. The brand u Buy is REPCAL and dust them lightly like a powdered donut not as much but so they are covered lightly in the powder. Place the insect in a big ziploc and sprinkle some and shake it a nice amount. Do this ASAP & u can reverse the MBD (Metabolic Bone disease) which has destroyed his bones. He will need lots of greens ( Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, snap peas, yellow squash & butternut squash) & healthy proteins; never ever do meal worms if he’s an adult 1.5 yrs old at least; u can also do super worms good protein but high in fat. Doesn’t matter he needs it cuz he’s lost weight and can’t move & has brittle bones. Temp for an adult 95-100; 98 is good. Do this ASAp and bring him back to life it’s gonna take wrk I DO It in 4mnths or so to revive these dragons. He needs UVB and calcium ASAP. Also NO colored bulbs ever & No meal worms and of u have sand substarte remove it ASAP it impacts them & destroys their tummy. Use smooth shelf liner beige color Not black form target or wallmart and u can place one white terry cloth towel on the cold side and they will poop on it; or use paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the substrate. GL this will work if u follow the details.

        Reply
    • I would love to know what the end result was. My beardie of 8 years has all the same symptoms exactly and we are worried for him.

      Reply
    • Why did u wait to get the UVB?? Why?? U think an hour or 2in the sun is Enuff? He needs Heat and UVB minimum 12-14 hours a day. The only and best UVB is the Reptisun 10.0 T5 from Amazon & order the length to cover 70 percent of his tank!!! And the ZooMed basking bulb for heat. For an adult; his temp should be 95-100; keep it at 97-98 and u should be good. U need to raise the bulb or lower his platform especially in the summer when the temp can reach 107 or 110 which is deadly for adults. The bulb should be 12inches away from basking spot or maybe 14 to get the right temp in the winter maybe 8-10 Inches away. Just buy the digital thermometer & set it on the platform and wait 15min to be tthe right temp. U need to play around now with it to get it right. Buy the digital themometer by ZooMed and the digital Hygometer by Thrive. Humidity needs to be 30-40 percent never ever higher. Also your cage should be 40 gallon till his 12mnths old then u need at least 4feet long by2by2!!!! He should be able to walk to the cold side when he gets to hot but Never should overheat!!! Place the Reptisun long UVB tube in the back starting at the hot side and the basking bulb in the front in basking area and buy a lower platform or raise the bulb buy a raiser to raise it. Also u need a digital ZooMed thermometer & Place the probe on his basking platform to get the right temp!! It’s $10. And a Beardie will die and be unable to eat or walk without UVB and calcium powder (REPCAL) Brand 4times a week dusted on crickets and Dubia roaches once per day!!! In his case do it 5 times per week but order the Reptisun ASAp. I hope he is still alive. Also no lights at nite it’s 12-14 hours of heat and uvb in the summer and 10-12 In the winter. Then pure dark at nite. Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. Buy a ceramic heat emitter for the winter which emits heat but no light and place it on top of the screen on the side where he sleeps if temp at nite goes below 70.

      Reply
  2. This article helped my 6yr old beardie “do the deed!” Drew a nice warm bath and massages his belly and within 10 minutes we had a much happier bearded dragon! Thank you for the advice/help!

    Reply
    • Stop the mealworms and remove the sand ASAP. This impacts them and destroys their tummy. Also; A Beardie needs UVB & Heat w/calcium powder 4times a week. NO colored or coiled bulbs to be used in his tank ever. Brittle bones, not able to eat, no energy, shaking, seizures, etc is what happens to them without UVb. Order on amazon the Best & Only recommended UVB: The Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70prcnt of the tank and place alongside the back beginning at the hot side so if he wants away from the uVb he can venture to the cold side or he can go under his hide. But for now he is in desperate need of UVB to revive him and calcium powder Also, for heat the ZooMed basking clear bulb only. Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. They also need calcium once per day dusted on their Dubia roaches or crickets. Or sprinkled on their veggies. The brand u Buy is REPCAL and dust them lightly like a powdered donut not as much but so they are covered lightly in the powder. If u have never been giving calcium powder then do it 6 times a week for a few months and u need the UVB to help him breakdown the calcium in his body & to absorb Vitamin D, without this he gets brittle bones, won’t eat and won’t really move, shakes, etc it’s called MBDisease and eventually leads to death. Place the insects in a big ziploc bag and sprinkle some and shake it. Do this ASAP & u can reverse the MBD (Metabolic Bone disease) which has destroyed his bones. He will need lots of greens/veggies; the Best & everyday ones are: (Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, snap peas, yellow squash & butternut squash) only. NO carrots, spinach, kale or lettuce. But mainly also lots & lots of healthy proteins; never ever do meal worms if he’s an adult 1.5 yrs old or older ; u can also do super worms; it’s very good protein but high in fat & hornworms (1-2 per day of the horns) Doesn’t matter he needs it cuz he’s lost weight and can’t move & has brittle bones. Temp for an adult 95-100; 98 is good. Do this ASAP & u can bring him back to life; it’s gonna take wrk I DO It in 4mnths or so to revive these dragons. He needs UVB and calcium ASAP. Also NO colored bulbs ever & No meal worms and if u have sand substarte remove it ASAP it impacts them & destroys their tummy. Use smooth shelf liner beige color Not black from target or wallmart & u can place one white terry cloth towel on the cold side and they will poop on it; or use paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the substrate. GL this will work if u follow the details. Reach out of u need more help. If he’s in bad shape take him to the vet for calcium shots but find a good reptile vet. Email me strappie71@hotmail.com and let me know his status.

      Reply
    • Hi we rescue & rehome and see this all the time. A Beardie needs UVB & Heat w/calcium powder 4times a week. NO colored or coiled bulbs to be used in his tank ever. Brittle bones, not able to eat, no energy, shaking, seizures, etc is what happens to them without UVb. Order on amazon the Best & Only recommended UVB: The Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70prcnt of the tank and place alongside the back beginning at the hot side so if he wants away from the uVb he can venture to the cold side or he can go under his hide. But for now he is in desperate need of UVB to revive him and calcium powder Also, for heat the ZooMed basking clear bulb only. Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. They also need calcium once per day dusted on their Dubia roaches or crickets. Or sprinkled on their veggies. The brand u Buy is REPCAL and dust them lightly like a powdered donut not as much but so they are covered lightly in the powder. If u have never been giving calcium powder then do it 6 times a week for a few months and u need the UVB to help him breakdown the calcium in his body. Place the insects in a big ziploc bag and sprinkle some and shake it. Do this ASAP & u can reverse the MBD (Metabolic Bone disease) which has destroyed his bones. He will need lots of greens/veggies; the Best & everyday ones are: (Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, snap peas, yellow squash & butternut squash) only. NO carrots, spinach, kale or lettuce. But mainly also lots & lots of healthy proteins; never ever do meal worms if he’s an adult 1.5 yrs old or older ; u can also do super worms; it’s very good protein but high in fat & hornworms (1-2 per day of the horns) Doesn’t matter he needs it cuz he’s lost weight and can’t move & has brittle bones. Temp for an adult 95-100; 98 is good. Do this ASAP & u can bring him back to life; it’s gonna take wrk I DO It in 4mnths or so to revive these dragons. He needs UVB and calcium ASAP. Also NO colored bulbs ever & No meal worms and if u have sand substarte remove it ASAP it impacts them & destroys their tummy. Use smooth shelf liner beige color Not black from target or wallmart & u can place one white terry cloth towel on the cold side and they will poop on it; or use paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the substrate. GL this will work if u follow the details. Reach out of u need more help. If he’s in bad shape take him to the vet for calcium shots but find a good reptile vet. Email me strappie71@hotmail.com and let me know his status.

      Reply
  3. My bearded dragon poops but only when he Is bathing. I’ve tried all other methods of getting him to drink but unless I physically push his head into his water bowl, he won’t. He doesn’t get it, I think he’s just a little dumb. I’ve had him for two years and he’s on a varied diet of Locusts (back legs removed as I’ve heard they can do some damage) and Dubai roaches with some additional superworms and waxworms here and there. He also loves a good bit of kale and occasionally broccoli. His temps are good and everything but I just don’t understand why he can’t seem to poops outside of the bath. Help!

    Reply
    • Robyn, he probably isn’t getting enough water. Beardies don’t often drink out of a water bowl by themselves but they need 3-5 mL of water a day. What I do with mine is take a 1 mL syringe, fill it with water, and put a few drops on his head. Once he understands what’s happening, he’ll lick it off and then I’ll usually just put a few drops in whenever he opens his mouth. I repeat this process a few times until it looks like he’s had enough to drink. Misting/water from veggies is not enough for a beardie so make sure he’s not dehydrated!

      Reply
    • Remove the locusts and waxworms Asap. Locusts are not a bearded dragon protein and wax or meal worms impacts her and destroys their tummy. Only crickets, Dubia roaches and u can do superworms if he’s almost 1.5 yrs of age. U can do some hornworms as treats a few a week they are high in fat. Also remove any sand substrate. They imgestbit amd it impacts them. Greens kale is a NO. dandelion greens, collard/mustard greens, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas and green beans and cut them up so he can eat them. These are the best & everyday greens for a Beardie!!! 2-3 of each per day. U are giving kale only which u are not suppose to give every day And u have no veggies in his diet. Stop the wax and locusts and he will be a different person.

      Reply
  4. I tried this method and it works. My Beardie is 8 years old and I adopted her from my school’s science lab. She was on a Pellet type diet and I reintroduced her to Romaine and a bit of Strawberry. I mix a smaller breed of Mill worms to get her to eat her veggies She has trouble going regularly so I tried Epsolm salt baths and massages. I place her on a Pet frendly heating pad. It took 3 days and today she went. I am sure she was comapcted because her droppings felt hard after I cleaned up. I am gong to use the Bath tub method more than using the sink. This artice saved me from havng to take her to a vet.

    Reply
    • My goodness!! STOP the mealworms that impacts them and destroys their tummy. The dragon needs good proteins: Feed only crickets, Dubia roaches & super worms only as protein. U can give some hornworms a few weekly as a treat. Also fruit do strawberries, blueberries, mango and papaya once a week. Sugar is not good for them. And he needs staple greens and veggies. Lettuce does nothing for them. Give him Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas & green beans only. These are the everyday best greens & veggies. 2-3 of each mixed and cut up to his size and give him a fresh plate In the mornign amd fresh one isn’t he afternoon. And proteins 20-25 crickets a day as an adult or 1/2 those and Dubias 4-5 super worms. We rescue and rehome; follow the above and he will be healthy again also remove any sand sibstarte and replace with beige smooth shelf liner from target or wallmart or paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the sibstarte or newspaper.

      Reply
  5. My header dragon is having the issues since Sunday . His leg were paralyzed and moving backwards. H started putting in warm water since Sunday he poop a get time inside water and outside. He is not eating . When I put him in water he seems to move and drinks water. I his change lights. He looks better but still doesn’t mor like he used. How long until he get better. Please help!!

    Reply
    • Hi we rescue & rehome and see this all the time. A Beardie needs UVB & Heat w/calcium powder dusted on his protein or veggies 4times a week, once per day. NO colored or coiled bulbs to be used in his tank ever. Brittle bones, not able to eat, no energy, shaking, seizures, etc is what happens to them without UVb; it’s called MBD. He needs a vet ASAP so they can give calcium shots. And rite now Order on amazon the Best & Only recommended UVB: The Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70prcnt of the tank and place alongside the back beginning at the hot side so if he wants away from the uVb he can venture to the cold side or he can go under his hide. But for now he is in desperate need of UVB to revive him and calcium powder Also, for heat the ZooMed basking clear bulb only. Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. They also need calcium once per day dusted on their Dubia roaches or crickets. Or sprinkled on their veggies. The brand u Buy is REPCAL and dust them lightly like a powdered donut not as much but so they are covered lightly in the powder. If u have never been giving calcium powder then do it 6 times a week for a few months and u need the UVB to help him breakdown the calcium in his body. Place the insects in a big ziploc bag and sprinkle some and shake it. Always In the summer it’s 12-14 Hot is per day of the heat/uvb & in the winter it’s 10-12 hours per day. Do this ASAP & u can reverse the MBD (Metabolic Bone disease) which has destroyed his bones. He will need lots of greens/veggies; the Best & everyday ones are: (Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, snap peas, yellow squash & butternut squash) only. NO carrots, spinach, kale or lettuce. But mainly also lots & lots of healthy proteins; crickets & Dubia roaches. Never ever do meal worms if he’s an adult 1.5 yrs old or older ; u can also do super worms; it’s very good protein but high in fat & hornworms (1-2 per day of the horns) Doesn’t matter he needs it cuz he’s lost weight and can’t move & has brittle bones. Temp for an adult 95-100; 98 is good. Do this ASAP & u can bring him back to life; it’s gonna take wrk I DO It in 4-6Mnths or so to revive these dragons. He needs UVB and calcium ASAP. Also NO colored bulbs ever and at nite pure dark-No lights. Use a ceramic heat emitter; it emits heat but no light in the winter if his temp in the cage at nite falls below 70. Never ever feed meal worms and if u have sand substrate remove it ASAP; both of those impacts them & destroys their tummy. U can Use smooth shelf liner beige color; Not black from target or wallmart & u can place one white terry cloth towel on the cold side and they will poop on it; or use paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the substrate. GL this will work if u follow the details. Reach out if u need more help. If he’s in bad shape take him to the vet for calcium shots but find a good reptile vet. Email me strappie71@hotmail.com and let me know his status.

      Reply
    • Hi we rescue & rehome and see this all the time. If the Beardie is not pooping daily; he’s Impacted & needs a vet ASAP. Unless u make these changes & see how he does; basically these are the causes of why a Beardie can’t poop and back legs can’t move. Sand substrate is a big No. If u have it remove it ASAP. Also, never ever feed meal worms or wax worms. It impacts them & destroys their tummy. Feed only Dubia roaches & crickets; if he’s 9 months or older u can do large ones. If he’s almost 1.5 it’s or older u can also give super worms. And in the morning the 1st feeding should be at least a minimum after he’s been basking for at least an hour and the last feeding they need lights on for 2hours before putting them to bed. The jeatvis what digests their food. Try and keep the times of feeding the same everyday they like a schedule and expect it. Aside from the mixed veggie & greens dish that should be placed in their to munch on Thruoght the day preferably a fresh one in the Am amd a new one on the afternoon. Also, the loss of movement on the legs and or shaking, lethargic, hardly eating, is lack of proper UVB lighting. A Beardie needs UVB & Heat both need to remain on for 12-14 Hours per day In the summer & 10-12 Hours on per day in the winter; basically try to keep the same Times for turning it on In the mornign & turning it off in the evening. In conjunction they need calcium powder 4times a week once per day. This is a MUST-NO EXCEPTIONS. NO colored or coiled bulbs to be used in his tank ever. Brittle bones, not able to eat, no energy, shaking, seizures, etc is what happens to them without proper UVB; it’s called MBD which is metabolic bone disease. If u don’t have this & in conjunction have not been giving calcium powder then he definitely has MBD. U can reverse it but u need to Order on amazon the Best & Only recommended UVB: The Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70prcnt of the tank and place alongside the back of the tank beginning at the hot side so if he wants away from the uVb he can venture to the cold side or he can go under his hide. But for now he is in desperate need of UVB to revive him and calcium powder. This UVB Reptisun u need to replace every 6mnths read the box. Also, for heat the ZooMed basking clear bulb only. Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. They also need calcium powder once per day 4times a week; dusted on their Dubia roaches or crickets or sprinkled on the greens/veggies. The brand u Buy is REPCAL and dust them lightly like a powdered donut not as much but so they are covered lightly in the powder. If u have never been giving calcium powder then do it 6 times a week for 3months or so & then go down to 4times a week. But they need the Reptisun UVB to digest & breakdown the calcium powder in their body & to absorb Vitamin D. Place the insects in a big ziploc bag and sprinkle some and shake it. Do this ASAP & u can reverse the MBD (Metabolic Bone disease) which has destroyed his bones. He will need lots of greens/veggies; the Best & everyday ones are: (Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, snap peas, yellow squash & butternut squash) only. NO carrots, spinach, kale or lettuce. But mainly lots & lots of healthy proteins; crickets & Dubia roaches!! Never ever do meal worms; and if he’s an adult 1.5 yrs old or older ; u can also do super worms; it’s very good protein but high in fat & hornworms (1-2 per day of the horns) Doesn’t matter he needs it if he’s lost weight and can’t move & has brittle bones. Temp for an adult 95-100; 98 is good. Do this ASAP & u can bring him back to life; it’s gonna take wrk I DO It in 4-6mnths or so to revive these dragons. He needs UVB and calcium ASAP & No meal worms and if u have sand substarte remove it ASAP it impacts them & destroys their tummy. Use smooth shelf liner beige color Not black from target or wallmart & u can place one white terry cloth towel on the cold side and they will poop on it; or use paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the substrate. GL this will work if u follow the details. Reach out of u need more help. If he’s in bad shape take him to the vet for calcium shots but find a good reptile vet. Email me strappie71@hotmail.com and let me know his status.

      Reply
    • Hi we rescue & rehome and see this all the time. I hope you have practiced better husbandry since one already died. I will give I all the proper info to move forward in the best way as far as the guidelines for Dragons. If the Beardie is not pooping almost daily; he’s Impacted & needs a vet ASAP. Unless u make these changes & see how he does; basically these are the causes of why a Beardie can’t poop and back legs can’t move. Sand substrate is a big No. If u have it remove it ASAP. Also, never ever feed meal worms or wax worms. It impacts them & destroys their tummy. Feed only Dubia roaches & crickets; if he’s 9 months or older u can do large ones. If he’s almost 1.5 yrs or older u can also give super worms. And in the morning the 1st feeding should be at least a minimum after he’s been basking for at least an hour and the last feeding they need lights on for 2hours before putting them to bed. The heat is what they need to digest their food & UVB to absorb Vitamin D and breakdown the calcium to be health, strong bones and have energy. Try and keep the times of feeding the same everyday they like a schedule and expect it. Aside from the mixed veggie & greens dish that should be placed in their to munch on thruougt the day preferably a fresh one in the Am & a new one in the afternoon; placed on the cold side of the tank so it doesn’t get wilted so fast. Also, the loss of movement on the legs and or shaking, lethargic, hardly eating, is lack of proper UVB lighting. A Beardie needs UVB & Heat both need to remain on for 12-14 Hours per day In the summer & 10-12 Hours on per day in the winter; basically try to keep the same Times for turning it on In the mornign & turning it off in the evening. In conjunction they need calcium powder 4times a week once per day. This is a MUST-NO EXCEPTIONS. NO colored or coiled bulbs to be used in his tank ever. Brittle bones, not able to eat, no energy, shaking, seizures, etc is what happens to them without proper UVB; it’s called MBD which is metabolic bone disease. If u don’t have this & in conjunction have not been giving calcium powder then he definitely has MBD. U can reverse it but u need to Order on amazon the Best & Only recommended UVB: The Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70prcnt of the tank and place alongside the back of the tank beginning at the hot side so if he wants away from the uVb he can venture to the cold side or he can go under his hide. But for now he is in desperate need of UVB to revive him and calcium powder. This UVB Reptisun u need to replace every 6mnths read the box. Also, for heat the ZooMed basking clear bulb only. Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. They also need calcium powder once per day 4times a week; dusted on their Dubia roaches or crickets or sprinkled on the greens/veggies. The brand u Buy is REPCAL and dust them lightly like a powdered donut not as much but so they are covered lightly in the powder. If u have never been giving calcium powder then do it 6 times a week for 3months or so & then go down to 4times a week. But they need the Reptisun UVB to digest & breakdown the calcium powder in their body & to absorb Vitamin D. Place the insects in a big ziploc bag and sprinkle some and shake it. Do this ASAP & u can reverse the MBD (Metabolic Bone disease) which has destroyed his bones. He will need lots of greens/veggies; the Best & everyday ones are: (Dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, snap peas, yellow squash & butternut squash) only. NO carrots, spinach, kale or lettuce. But mainly lots & lots of healthy proteins; crickets & Dubia roaches!! Never ever do meal worms; and if he’s an adult 1.5 yrs old or older ; u can also do super worms; it’s very good protein but high in fat & hornworms (1-2 per day of the horns) Doesn’t matter he needs it if he’s lost weight and can’t move & has brittle bones. Temp for an adult 95-100; 98 is good. Do this ASAP & u can bring him back to life; it’s gonna take wrk I DO It in 4-6mnths or so to revive these dragons. He needs UVB and calcium ASAP & No meal worms and if u have sand substarte remove it ASAP it impacts them & destroys their tummy. Use smooth shelf liner beige color Not black from target or wallmart & u can place one white terry cloth towel on the cold side and they will poop on it; or use paper towels or white terry cloth towels as the substrate. GL this will work if u follow the details. Reach out of u need more help. If he’s in bad shape take him to the vet for calcium shots but find a good reptile vet. Email me strappie71@hotmail.com and let me know his status.

      Reply

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